Meetings Newsletter Show-n-Tell

November 2022

Notes from our latest meeting plus photo from the Show-n-Tell. 20221117_201104

20221117_201123Vic DiSanto – FM 1/48 F11F Tiger on hold for decals on the tail. Vic wishes he could buy another one for all the lessons learned. 
20221117_201130Phil Allen –  various parts for the ship he’s been building. All scratch built. 
20221117_20114420221117_201150Gerry Whiteside – Revell 1/48 F/A-18 and Hobby Boss Hellcat
20221117_20115720221117_201205Joe Nevis 1/56 scale Comet war gaming stuff and 1/144 US WWII aircraft for war games. 
20221117_201220Bill Suggs – Hasegawa 1/48 Spitfire Mk.Vb on Malta 1942 from profile in reference book.
20221117_20123620221117_20124220221117_20124820221117_201255Doc Haugh – 3 Eduard 1/48 Hellcats. Mk.2, Mk.1, F6F-3 USS Indy.  Dragon 1/48 Ju-188 torpedo bomber.
20221117_20140620221117_201412Justin Reed – Tamiya 1/35 T-34 with Rye Field Models tracks. AIRFIX 1/76 Male Mk.1, however Covid brain caused missing assemblies so well be fun to fix. 
20221117_201418Carey Marrinan – a “Diverama”  made with a Moskva and LA class sub, and a divert from the free figures last meeting
20221117_20143720221117_201442Vince Mankowski – 1/48 OA-4M nearing completion & PBY-5A brass origami in work!
20221117_201455John Williamson – Tamiya 1/700 Japanese heavy cruisers converted to baby carriers, and a light cruiser.
20221117_20150420221117_20150920221117_201518Tim Holland – UPC 1/72  “Norm” and Tamiya J7W1 Shinden, kits of the 60’s so lots of raised details. Had to remove alignment pins to get them together. Fine Molds 1/72 F-4J Phantom II. Using Tamiya paints and pre-shading (which hides things!).
20221117_201529Scott Samo – Hasegawa 1/48 A6M2-N Rufe. Added punched dials to the cockpit, the rest is out of box. 
20221117_20153820221117_201544Darrin Cook – Arma Hobby 1/72 P-39. Tamiya 1/12 Suzuki GSX-RR. 
20221117_201554Paul Warren – Eduard 2/48 F6F-5 Hellcat. 
20221117_20160520221117_201600Dan Yakel – Dragon 1/35 M4A1 DV (direct vision) from N Africa campaign. Eduard 1/48 Roland C.II. will finish as aircraft of Jasta 2.
20221117_201632Andrew Frill- Tamiya 1/48 P-38J, and the decals amazingly went down beautifully. Painted with Tamiya LP11, then different metalizers on various panels. 
20221117_201700Joe Hegedus – Eduard 1/48 F6F-5 weekend edition, finished with an Otaki propeller, drop tank, and How may have replaced the wheels. Finished in M/M GSB, using a mix of decals to build Paper Doll.20221117_201045

Exhaust Heat Shield

Tamiya M41 Walker Bulldog Project — Exhaust Heat Shield Rust & Weathering Technique

IMG_1363Below are my steps used to achieve a realistic rusty appearance to the exhausts on the Tamiya M41 Walker Bulldog kit.


  1. Airbrush a base of red-brown per your liking, but aim to simulate a rusty tone.  I used a mix of Tamiya Flat Red (XF-7) and Flat Brown (XF-10).
  2. Spray/Airbrush on a chipping medium.  I used Ammo by Mig brand.

NOTE 1: “Ammo by Mig” are my preferred weathering products b/c application matches expectations


  1. Base coat OLIVE DRAB to match the muffler to the rest of the vehicle’s base color.
    1. I’m assuming but didn’t verify, this was how these units came from the factory.  Likely a bad assumption.
    2. My O.D. was a custom mix of the new Tamiya Lacquer Paint Olive Drab (LP-28), Olive Drab # 2 (LP-29) and a splash of Buff (LP-75) to lighten it.
    3. I lighten all my Tamiya mixes with buff instead of white to keep it on the warmer, dustier side.  I feel like I can always coat with a thin layer of buff for a dusty look as a much needed blend layer if contrast is suddenly too stark.


  1. Chip off the Olive Drab.
    1. Using a damp sponge and a cheap, stiff paint brush (I trim some of the bristles as required to stiffen)…I slowly chipped away the outer O.D. layer.
    2. I used the sponge more than the brush.
    3. My goal was to try to leave some of O.D. around the outer edges to look like overspray had built up on the muffler and started to bake off.


NOTE 2: Again, I didn’t reference and verify this…its just how I’ve seen mufflers and heat shields age from other real world examples.

NOTE 3: The rest of this involves pigments, and I make sure to put down a disposable drop cloth to catch the mess…more pigment ends up under the model than on it


  1. I applied AK Interactive, Dark Rust pigment Powder with my stiff brush, stippling back and forth with pigment and then a little bit of pigment fixer.
    1. I used Ammo by Mig fixer but IPA will work.
    2. The Fixer product was hotter than the IPA so keep that in mind with the base finish you are working with when selecting a fixer.
    3. I only use 91% IPA…not sure if this makes a difference, but its my only IPA data point
  1. I applied sparse amounts of AK Interactive Ochre Rust (aka Yellow) pigment in the same method for tone modulation.
  2. Proceeded to apply various combination of ground, soft pastels  using brown, orange, red and yellow to please my Mark 1 eyeball.  IPA as a fixer here works.  Let the pigment dry and cure.
  3. I then applied a back-and-forth combo of AK Interactive’s Exhaust Wash and Ammo’s Fixer with more pigments to build a rusty texture to the muffler.  I used a stippling action with my stiff brush to assist achieving my texture.
  4. Let dry, then inspect.  Repeat until you have a color, texture you are satisfied with.
Paints & Pigments used: